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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.